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is easy to see that color selection is not based on mere whim, but is the outware expression of the inner being of an entire community. Through embroidery we are allowed to participate in the very personal life of a group of people. It is for this reason that their patterns be treated with the utmost respect. Unfortunately, however, to some the admonition not to change ethnic colors implies a robotic copying of things done before. No matter how exquisite the stitchery may be, this is viewed as uncreative, hence, undesira ble. While one’s creativity may be checked by a limited palette, it can find free rein elsewhere. A blouse design may be adapted to a pillow or tablecloth; a border may be made narrower or wider. In some cases, the design itself may be pulled apart and put back together again to create an entirely new or complementary design. A word of caution is required here for we are treading on thin ice. The idea of dissecting designs to create new ones is not one universally accepted. The question becomes, “ If such a step is taken, will the resultant design still be considered a part of the tradition from which it originated?” I leave this to you to contemplate, but acceptable or not, one still must handle ethnic lim itations such as proportions and layout. In dealing with other cultures, make no assumptions — for example, not everyone mitres corners! Once again, the only way to know what is and what is not acceptable is to make a more profound study of that group’s tastes; such is the obligation one assumes in dealing with ethnic embro ideries. Ethnic embroideries which do not exercise such strict control over the choice of colors do exist and if one insists upon matching the embroidery to the sofa, these may be a way out. Of course, free form embroideries usually offer more freedom in this realm, but Turkish embroidery, for instance, does so as well. Any number of shades of pink, mauve, peach, rust, blue and white may be selected, in addition, green, gold and silver — the choice is yours. Instead of changing the color of a given design, look for one with the color you desire, either within that same ethnic group or outside of it. This confusion over the changing of colors in ethnic patterns is not unique to the United States. The problem is worldwide and not everyone is sensitive to it. Often it is greatest within the ethnic groups themselves, due to a break in the education of one generation by its prede cessor. As rigid as these rules may be made to sound, they have been repeatedly broken and some tantalizing questions remain. With the advent of synthetic dyes and the expansion of world trade, previously secluded areas have gained access to new colors and motifs. Some have incorporated very foreign elements into their embro ideries to the point that the originals have been totally obscured. Is this decadence or evolution? If members of a given ethnicity change colors within their own tradi tion, is this innovation, or corruption? At what point in time does one stop the clock and say, “This is authentic, that later piece is not?” These are all interesting questions you might want to ponder. For my part, I have seen colors changed and design enhanced; I have seen far more colors changed and designs totally destroyed. Whatever colors are used, they must complement and not overwhelm or confuse the overall flow of the design. Color is not important in itself; it is important 1) as a reflection of the attitudes of a society and 2) as an aid to creating an effective design. Hundreds of folk artists have worked on these patterns to achieve a balance between color and design; what they have handed down to us seems pretty hard to beat! The above article appeared in COUNTED THREAD magazine in September 1985. It is reprinted with the permission of the author. Shrimp and Scallop Salad INGREDIENTS 3/4 to 1 pound of shrimp, shelled and deveined 3/4 pound sea scallops 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/2 cup vegetable oil 3 tablespoons light olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, chives or basil 1 head of red leaf or Boston lettuce Method 1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the shrimp and scallops. When the water returns to a boil drain the sea food into a colander. Rinse under cold running water until cool; drain well. 2. Slice shrimp in half lengthwise. Cut the scallops horizontally into 2 or 3 rounds. Cover the seafood and refrigirate. (The sea food can be prepared up to a day ahead, but fresh is best.) 3. In a large bowl, blend together the lemon juice and mustard. Gradually whisk in the oils. Season with salt and peper and stir in the chopped herbs. 4. To serve, arrange the lettuce leaves on serving platters. Whisk the vinaigrette to mix, add the chilled seafood and toss to coat. Arrange the dressed seafood on the top of the lettuce. This salad is excellent with thin sliced toast or fine crackers. A dry white wine is a good accompaniment to this light, nutri tious lunch.
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