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Gerdan from Lemko region. Photo by T. Hryciw. re g io n s o f W e s te rn U k ra in e , b e c a m e an in te g ra l p a rt o f re g io n a l c o s tu m e s a n d w o rn by all c la s s e s o f th e p o p u la c e . 1 9 th c e n tu ry e th n o g ra p h e rs b e g a n to c o lle c t an d c a ta lo g u e g e rd a n y , n o tin g th a t w o m e n in W e s te rn U k ra in e w o re b e a d e d d e c o ra tio n s n o t o n ly a ro u n d th e ir n e c k s , b u t a ls o as h e a d w e a r, p a rtic u la rly on tra d itio n a l h o lid a y s . T h e b e a d s w e re s e w n o n to b a n d s o f w o v e n s tra w . T h e s e b a n d s w e re th e n in te rtw in e d a ro u n d th e w o m e n ’s lo n g b ra id s o f h a ir. Ivan F ra n k o , M y k h a ilo K o t- s iu b y n s k iy , M y k o la L y s e n k o , O le n a P c h ilk a , V asy l K ry - c h e v s k y a n d O le n a K u lc h y c k a w e re n o ta b le a m o n g th e e th n o g ra p h e rs w h o b e c a m e in te re s te d in th e a rt fo rm . T h e a rt o f m a k in g g e rd a n y flo u ris h e d in to th e tw e n tie th c e n tu ry w h e n th e d is ru p tiv e fo rc e s of tw o w o rld w a rs a n d th e c o m m u n is t c o n q u e s t o f U k ra in e o n c e a g a in d e ra ile d th e c re a tiv e p ro c e s s of m a k in g g e rd a n y . S u p p lie s o f b e ad s , th re a d a n d n e e d le s d is a p p e a re d ; v il la g e a rtis a n s w e re s e n t to to il o n c o lle c tiv e fa rm s; no o n e h ad th e tim e o r th e m e a n s to p u rs u e an a rt fo rm th a t d id n o t fill th e q u o ta s a n d re q u ire m e n ts d ic ta te d b y th e C o m m u n is t P a rty . In k e e p in g w ith th e P a rty ’s view s o n a rt fo r th e p ro le ta ria t, a g e rd a n fa c to ry in K iev w a s e s ta b lis h e d a n d 50 to 6 0 w o m e n w o rk e d on a g o v e rn m e n t a p p ro v e d p a tte rn , m a s s p ro d u c in g a ty p e o f g e r d a n th a t by its v e ry n a tu re c o n tra d ic te d th e tra d itio n a l p u rp o s e a n d fla v o r o f g e rd a n y w h ic h h a d c h a ra c te riz e d th e a rt fo rm s in c e it firs t e v o lv e d . F o r th e e s s e n c e o f th e a rt fo rm w a s th a t e a c h g e rd a n s h o u ld be u n iq u e to its re g io n o f o rig in an d u n iq u e to th e p e rs o n a l s k ills a n d im a g in a tiv e ta le n ts o f its in d iv id u a l c re a to r. T h e sad re s u lt o f th is h is to ry is th a t m a n y tra d itio n a l d e s ig n s a n d p a tte rn s w e re lo st to th e ra v a g e s of w a r a n d c o m m u nism a n d th a t fe w p e o p le in to d a y ’s U k ra in e h a ve th e k n o w le d g e a n d skill to fa s h io n th e s e tra d itio n a l d e s ig n s . Gerdan from Boyko region. Photo by T. Hryciw. It is im p o rta n t h e re to e la b o ra te s o m e w h a t on the tra d itio n a l d e s ig n s a n d p a tte rn s o f g e rd a n y , b e g in n in g w ith a q u a lific a tio n o f th e te rm “g e rd a n y ” its elf w h ic h is a g e n e ric te rm th a t has b e e n a p p lie d to U k ra in ia n g la s s - b e a d n e c k la c e s o f v a rio u s s ty le s fro m v a rio u s reg io n s . T h e r e a re six b a sic s ty le s o f b e a d e d n e c k la c e s , o n ly o n e o f w h ic h is te c h n ic a lly re fe rre d to as “g e rd a n ” . T h e tru e g e rd a n is a lo n g , th in b e a d e d n e c k la c e fro m w h ic h a m e d a llio n is s u s p e n d e d . T h e o th e r “g e rd a n y ” are v a ria tio n s on th is th e m e , b u t d o no t in c lu d e th is d is tin c tiv e m e d a llio n . T h e first v a ria tio n is th e c o lla r w h ic h ca n v a ry in w id th a n d is tie d a t th e b a c k o f th e n e c k b y a s trin g . T h e s e c o n d is th e “s y lin n k a ” w h ic h ca n be w o rn a ro u n d th e n e c k as a c h o k e r, o r b e u s ed as a h e ad o rn a m e n t fo r w o m e n o r a h a t o rn a m e n t fo r m en . " K ru - c h e n y k y ” a re s e w n th re e d im e n s io n a lly , “la n ts u s h k y ” a re v e ry n a rro w c h a in s se w n o n tw o n e e d le s , a n d “z u b - c h y k y ” a re s im ila r to c o lla rs , b u t a re c h a ra c te riz e d , as th e n a m e s u g g e s ts b y to o th -lik e s e rra te d e d g e s . G e r d a n y ca n b e s tru n g , b ra id e d o r w o v e n an d a rtis a n s use n e e d le s a n d s m a ll lo o m s . D e s ig n s c a n be g e o m e tric o r flo ra l a n d v a ry in p a tte rn , te c h n iq u e a n d c o lo r d e p e n d ing o n th e re g io n in w h ic h th e y a re m a d e . T ra d itio n a l g e rd a n y p a tte rn s o f all re g io n s w e re d e s ig n e d to m a tc h re g io n a l c o s tu m e s so b e a d s a n d e m b ro id e ry c o m p li m e n t e a c h o th e r. T h e L e m k o s c re a te d m a g n ific e n t b e a d e d c o lla rs c a lle d K ra y k a an d K ry v u lk a o r K ry za . T h e c o lla rs are w id e , m e a s u rin g u p to 20 cm in w id th an d are c h a ra c te riz e d b y tr i-c o lo re d d ia m o n d s . T h e c o lla r b e g in s at th e n e c k lin e w ith 8 to 12 th re a d s on w h ic h b e a d s a re s tru n g c ro s sw ise . A m id s e c tio n o f v e rtic a lly stru n g b e a d s is a tta c h e d b e lo w a n d th e c o lla r is fin is h e d o ff w ith a b o rd e r of h o riz o n ta lly s tru n g b e ad s . R ed is th e d o m i 20 "НАШ Е Ж И Т Т Я ”, В Е Р Е С Е Н Ь 1995 Видання C оюзу Українок A мерики - перевидано в електронному форматі в 2012 році . A рхів C У A - Ню Йорк , Н . Й . C Ш A.
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