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BAUBLES, BANGLES AND BEADS A N O V E R V IE W O F U K R A IN IA N G E R D A N Y B Y T A M A R A S T A D N Y C H E N K O T h e h is to ry o f glass b e a d s , fo r o rn a m e n ta tio n , e c o n o m ic a n d re lig io u s p u rp o s e s b e g in s w ith th e a n c ie n t E g y p tia n s w h o c a lle d th e b e a d s “b u s ra ” o r a rtific ia l p e a rls . T h e b e a d -m a k in g p ro c e s s o f th e e a rly E g y p tia n s w a s c o p ie d a n d re la tiv e ly u n c h a n g e d b y th e a n c ie n t G re e k s a n d th e R o m a n s w h o d is s e m in a te d th e b e a d s a n d b e a d m a k in g te c h n iq u e s to th e fa rth e s t re a c h e s o f th e ir e m p ire s . B e a d m a k in g m e th o d s w e re als o s p re a d e a s tw a rd u n d e r th e B y z a n tin e e m p ire a n d la te r, th ro u g h tra d e , u n d e r th e O tto m a n e m p ire . G la s s b e a d s w e re c re a te d b y c o m p le x , im p e rfe c t p ro c e s s e s , in c lu d in g g la s s -b lo w in g . M o lte n g la s s w as b lo w n th ro u g h a tu b e to fo rm a lo n g h o llo w rod. T h e ro d w a s s lic e d a t re la tiv e ly re g u la r in te rv a ls to c re a te b e a d s w h ic h w e re re la tiv e ly u n ifo rm in s ize . S h a p e a n d c o lo r w e re h a p h a z a rd , re fle c tin g ra w m a te ria ls a v a ila b le in th e re g io n th e b e a d s w e re m a d e a n d ev en m o re s o th e d is tin c tiv e s ty le s an d lev els o f e x p e rtis e in g la s s b lo w in g p r a c tic e d b y in d iv id u a l c ra fts m e n . T h e y w e re d iffic u lt to m a k e a n d e x p e n s iv e to o w n — w e ll c ra fte d b e a d s w e re m o re e x p e n s iv e th a n p e a rls a n d w e re re s e rv e d fo r th e u p p e r c la s s e s o r used fo r b a rte r as la te as th e 15th a n d 1 6 th c e n tu rie s . T h e w e ll k n o w n s to ry o f h o w M a n h a tta n w a s p u rc h a s e d fro m A m e ric a n In d ia n a fo r a h a n d fu l o f b e a d s m a y s e e m lu d ic ro u s to th o s e o f us w h o a re a c c u s to m e d to s e e in g g la s s b e a d s o f e v e ry s h a p e a n d h u e a v a ila b le e v e ry w h e re a t lo w p ric e s a n d s c o rn e d as c h e a p a lte rn a tiv e s to “ real je w e lr y ” . B u t to th e b u y e rs a n d s e lle rs o f M a n h a tta n , g la s s b e a d s w e re a rare a n d v a lu a b le c o m m o d ity . B e tw e e n th e 8 th a n d 1 2 th c e n tu rie s , m a s te r c ra fts m e n o f R u s ’ U k r a in e p ra c tic e d th e tim e -h o n o re d , if im p e rfe c t, m e th o d o f glass b lo w in g to c re a te glass b e ad s . T h e c u t b e a d s w e re p la c e d in to la rg e b o w ls a n d m ix e d w ith lim e , c h a rc o a l, a n d c la y . T h e lim e, c h a rc o a l an d c la y m ix tu re fille d th e h o llo w s in th e b e a d s w h ic h w e re th e n b a k e d . D u rin g th e b a k in g p ro c e s s , th e b e a d s w e re r o u n d e d . T h e tin y g la s s b e a d s w e re c ra fte d in to n e c k la c e s , g e rd a n y , o f v a rie d d e s ig n s an d sty le s . T h e s e le c tio n o f c o lo rs a n d p a tte rn s a n d te c h n iq u e s w e re p a sse d d o w n fro m g e n e ra tio n to g e n e ra tio n . D u e to T a ta r in v a s io n s a n d fre q u e n t w a rs a n d o th e r h a rd s h ip s , th e a rt o f c r e a tin g g e rd a n y d ie d o u t in th e 1 2 th c e n tu ry . M a te ria ls w e re d iffic u lt to c o m e b y a n d th e p o p u la tio n o f R u s ’ U k r a in e fo c u s e d o n su rv ival ra th e r th a n a rtis tic c re a tiv ity . W h ile U k ra in ia n b e a d c ra fts m e n a n d th e v illa g e a rti s a n s w h o c ra fte d th e g la s s b e a d s in to g e rd a n y fo c u s e d th e ir tim e a n d e ffo rt on s u rv iv a l, th e g la s s b e a d in d u s try in w e s te rn E u ro p e e v o lv e d a n d c h a n g e d . F o r m a n y c e n - Handcrafting a gerdan. tu rie s , th e d u c h y o f V e n ic e w a s th e re c o g n iz e d c e n te r o f g lass b e a d c ra ft. V e n e tia n a rtis ts h a d p e rfe c te d a s e c re t p ro c e s s w h ic h p ro d u c e d m o re b e a u tifu l a n d m o re u n i fo rm b e a d s . B u t in d u s tria l e s p io n a g e is n o t a tw e n tie th c e n tu ry in v e n tio n a n d th e s e c re t p ro c e s s w a s e v e n tu a lly s to le n a n d c a rrie d o u t o f V e n ic e , c u rta ilin g th e c e n tu r ie s ’ lo n g m o n o p o ly . O n e o f th e a rtis a n s w h o h a d m a s te re d th e te c h n iq u e fle d w ith th e s e c re t to B o h e m ia w h e re th e p ro c e s s w a s im p ro v e d u p o n b y J o h a n n K u n c k e l w h o p e rfe c te d a m e th o d o f c o lo rin g b e a d s by m ix in g m o lte n g la s s w ith v a rio u s e le m e n ts th a t p ro d u c e d a tin t in th e fin is h e d b e a d . E v e n tu a lly g la s s b lo w in g w a s re p la c e d b y a m e c h a n iz e d p ro c e s s a n d b e a d s b e c a m e m o re u n ifo rm , m o re p le n tifu l. T h e c h a n g e s in th e p ro d u c tio n o f g la s s b e a d s w e re e v e n tu a lly in tro d u c e d to U k ra in e a n d in th e 1 8 0 0 ’s a m e c h a n iz e d b e a d fa c to ry w a s e s ta b lis h e d in K iev an d th e a rt o f m a k in g g e rd a n y , w h ic h h a d re s u rfa c e d in U k ra in e d u rin g th e 1 7 th c e n tu ry , b e c a m e in c re a s in g ly m o re w id e s p re a d a n d m o re p o p u la r. D u rin g th e e a rly re n a is s a n c e o f g e rd a n y , th e y w e re th e e x c lu s iv e p ro v in c e o f th e n o b ility w h o w e re w e a lth y e n o u g h to p u r c h a s e g la s s b e a d s a n d h a v e th e m fa s h io n e d in to o rn a m e n ts . M e c h a n iz a tio n m a d e m a te ria ls a c c e s s ib le to e v e ry o n e a n d g e rd a n y , e s p e c ia lly in th e C a rp a th ia n M o u n ta in НАШЕ ЖИТТЯ”, ВЕРЕСЕНЬ 1995 19
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