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The Children's Costume E m b ro id ered sh irt fo r a sm all girl. SHIRT The sh irts in U kraine w ere of pure linen. H ere we could use w ashable w hite cotton or ba- tist. The p a tte rn of a sh irt, as used fo r centuries in U kraine, is draw n below. All p a rts of th e sh irt — th e w aist, th e sleeves and th e collar and cuffs are cut in re ctan g u lar shape. The sam e p a tte rn is used fo r a g irl as a grow n-up wom an, only th e size changes. A lthough it is not h ard to fol low th is p attern , it is advisable to choose a sim pler one fo r little girls to age of 10. T his p a tte rn is also used in U kraine in some regions. The p a tte rn consists of a w aist, sleeves, collar and cuffs. The w aist (p a rt 1) is as in a rag lan blouse. The rag lan sleeves (p a rt 2 ) ; th e ir m arked side lines have to be linked w ith th e w aist. The collar and cuffs are narro w strip es cut from bias m aterial. A tten tio n : The sleeves m u st be long to th e w rist and very wide to form a p u ffy sleeve. The cuffs have to be large enough fo r th e sleeve to be pushed up to th e elbow, if desired. A n elas tic could be used in th e cuff. The child’s sh irt is long, to th e knees. The p a tte rn of a rag lan blouse is available in any Company store, th erefo re could be easily applied in accordance w ith th e size needed. E m broidery. The U krainian sh irt is alw ays em broidered. The em broidery has to be done a fte r sh irt is cut out from m at erial b u t before sewing. The m ain (shoulder) design is applied on sleeve. A wide de sign “polyk,” is em broidered below th e shoulder and sm all mo tives are dispersed in th re e row s on th e sleeves itself. (See pic tu re ). A sm all suitable design is used fo r th e collar and cuffs as well as th e fro n t opening of th e sh irt. The sam e design or sim ilar, is applied on th e low er hem of th e sh irt. It m u st be vis ible from under th e sk irt. It is called “pidtychka.” The designs in th e Kiev region are m ade by w eaving stitc h (pe- retik an n ia) or cross stitc h (ch rest). A selection of s h irt de signs has th e “B azaar design book” and th e “Olena P chilka de sign book” ($1.75 each). The ba sic colors are red (D.M.C. 321) and black (D.M.C. 310). A tte n tio n : E m broidery de signs fo r children should be sm aller in size th a n these fo r women. Bew are of designs from dif fe re n t regions w hich are n o t suitable to Kiev costum e . 22 НАШЕ ЖИТТЯ — ВЕРЕСЕНЬ, 1962 R aglan p a tte rn fo r a sm all g irl’s sh irt. Видання C оюзу Українок A мерики - перевидано в електронному форматі в 2012 році . A рхів C У A - Ню Йорк , Н . Й . C Ш A.
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