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OUR LIFE MONTHLY, published by Ukrainian National Women’s League of America Vol. XXXIII OCTOBER 1977 No. 9 His B eatitude J o s y f I Patriarch o f the Pom isna U krainian C a th o lic C hu rch and C ardin al The Vatican Your Beatitude, Our Patriarch and Cardinal: On the occasion of Your 60th anniversary of pastoral toil in Christ’s vineyard, the Ukrainian National Women’s League of America its Executive Board and membership extend their heartfelt greetings. We bow our heads before You, before heroism and spiritual strength, before all that You have suffered on the long, trying path in the service of God and nation. May ghe Almighty bless You with good health and strength for many more years, so that we may continue to be in your care. With filial devotion, UNWLA EXECUTIVE BO ARD A NEW EXHIBIT OPENS AT THE UKRAINIAN MUSEUM A new exhibit, Traditional Design in Ukrainian Textiles, opens at the Ukrainian Museum, 203 Second Avenue, on October 29, 1977. Exquisite peasant textiles and costumes, dating from the second half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20 th century, will be on display. The show consists of more than 70 embroi dered, woven and printed articles — such as rushnyks (ritual cloths), bedspreads, furniture covers and items of clothing — in addition to sixteen complete folk costumes. A wide variety of patterns and a broad range of techniques are presented in this well-organized exhibi tion, devoted to textiles which originate mainly from Western and Central Ukraine. Included, for example, are samples of simple cross stitching, as well as complex weaving stitches, in embroidered shirts. Woven head- cloths very from plain tobby weavings to sophisticated- fancy twills. In the majority of textiles displayed, linen, hemp and wool yarns — or a combination of these materials predominated. Cotton yarns appear less frequently and, for the most part, are used only as additional pattern wefts. The artisan-weavers who created the textiles obtained special visual effects by using contrasting textures and colors. Most striking in this regard are beautifull examples of inlaid weaving which show coarse wool patterns executed on fine linen ground cloth. The craftsmen also achieved intersting shadow effects in the weaving of twills by twisting wart and weft yarns in opposit directions and alternating them. The exibit, as it is mounted, shows not only the out standing diversity of Ukrainian peasant textiles, but also is organized in such a manner as to introduce a historic perspective, as well. Embroidery samples are arranged to acquint the viewer of basic patterns and their evolution over time. Another noticable change can be most clearly seen in embroidered shirts from West Ukrainne. In the 19th century, home-spun and plant-dyed threads in soft- toned shades of red, blue, brown and black were pre dominately used in embroidery. At the beginning of the 20 th century, commercial cotton thread replaced the domestically produced materials. With the advent of chemically dyed threads, new colors — such as violet, pink, aquamarine, orange and bright yellow — begin to appear in the embroidery patterns. Changing trends can also be distinguished in the costumes displayed. One category can be named the old style costume, which differs little from 17th century forms even though it was made much later. The second category, the newer type costume, which makes its appearance in the middle of the 19th century, reflects the assimilation of urban influences: the use of commercial fabrics and the introduction of new fashions, such as close fitting jackets and pleated skirts. Overall, the costumes and articles of clothing will probably have a striking look of modernity for today’s viewer. Woven tied belts, textured wrap-around skirts — all the very stuff of the most current designer fashion. Nevertheless, these textiles are the product of an age and a culture in which the celebration of beauty in everyday things — each handcrafted and individualized — was far more commonplace than it is here and now. Finally, it should be noted that in the design of Ukrainian peasant textiles Oriental, as well as European, influences are clearly discernible. Inasmuch as Ukrainian culture developed on the crossroad of East and West, this characteristic is not at all surprising. However, the highly asthetic and visually dynamic combination of these disparate elements of style will both surprise and delight visitors of the Ukrainian Museum’s newest exhibit. The Museum hours are: Wednesday, 1:00 p. m. to 5:00 p. m. Friday 3:00 p. m. to 7:00 p. m. Sat & Sun 1:00 p. m. to 5:00 p. m. НАШЕ ЖИТТЯ, ЖОВТЕНЬ 1977 25
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